Enira 2006, Bessa Valley

Couple of months ago I had the chance to taste a Bulgarian wine for the first time: Enira Reserva 2006. I received it as a gift from Andreea Duminicioiu after a visit at Origine whine shop in Cluj. Several weeks after this first visit I'm back in Cluj and this time I bought another wine from Origine: Enira 2006 from Bessa Valley.

A rainy Saturday night and a fresh-out-of-the-oven lasagna tray were argument enough for opening Enira 2006. Created by French winemaker Marc Dworkin, Enira 2006 is a classic bordolese blend: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Petit Verdot. After half an hour of aeration, the wine glasses arrived. Ruby colour, tears flowing slowly on the side of the glass betray a generous concentration of alcohol (14.5%). Primary flavours make their appearance: bitter cherries, black forest fruits (blueberries) and then fruit jam flavours take the floor: plums and strawberries are more predominant. It's taste and texture bears the print of the grape varieties that it is obtained of: robust structure, strong tannins and spicy touches, but slightly unbalanced by the alcohol. This imbalance, probably caused by the increasing temperature during aeration, determined me to return to this wine the next day. Served at the proper temperature I noticed new flavours: green pepper and chocolate icing. Also I found it softer an it's tannins less aggressive. The after taste is long and spicy. 

It costs around 12 Euros and it can be found in wine shops like Origine and Crama Noastra in Cluj-Napoca, Enoteca de Savoya in Timisoara, but also in Real hypermarkets.

Wiener Gemischter Satz Classic 2009, Rotes Haus

The wine of August's last Sunday came from the Austrian capital, Vienna. It was a Wiener Gemischter Satz produced by Rotes Haus. This wine is produced from grapes coming from the best vineyards of Vienna: Nussberg.

Since Wiener Gemischter Satz wines are by definition the wine's expression of terroir, I think it's necessary to write a few words about the area they come from. The soil in Nussberg vineyard is characterized by layers of flysch, over which came layers of clay and gravel, all with a high content of lime. In terms of climate, Nussberg enjoys a privileged position influenced by the Danube, the Vienna Woods and Pannonian climate. Danube and the Viennese woods maintain low temperature during the night and the Pannonian climate provides warmth and low humidity over the summer, and most importantly in autumn, before the harvesting.



Rotes Haus cellars are led by Hans Schmid, who is part of a new generation of wine producers in Vienna. The first Rotes Haus wine was bottled in 2003. From the very beginning Grüner Veltliner was promoted as well as the traditional Viennese style of wine making, where Wiener Gemischter Satz is the main example. Wines produced by Rotes Haus are only obtained from grapes picked from vines planted in Nussberg. Owner's desire being to concentrate and deliver as much of Nussberg's terroir as possible.

Wiener Gemischter Satz 2009 Classic is made from four white grapes: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Neuburger and Traminer. In the glass the wine is clear, has hay colour, with greenish reflections and a slight fizz. The nose is complex - flavours ranging from newly mown hay to fruit flavours: lemon, green apple and melon. I remembered for a few moments Cramposie Selectionata from Agricola Stirbey or Aligote from Gramma / Casa Olteanu. Once tasted, it reveals the true face of the terroir: minerality. This feature of Nussberg is doubled by a pleasant acidity, very well integrated, and a salty taste that reminds me of the sea breeze. The after taste is medium and that nice mineral taste persists in your mouth for a while. I didn't pair it with some kind of food, but if I did I would have chosen fish baked in salt.

For those who visit Vienna in the summer or autumn, when the hot wind that blows from the Pannonian plains creates that "Indian summer", Wiener Gemischter Satz Classic 2009 from Rotes Haus is a very good choice. The price is around 8-9 Euros.