Wiener Gemischter Satz Classic 2009, Rotes Haus

The wine of August's last Sunday came from the Austrian capital, Vienna. It was a Wiener Gemischter Satz produced by Rotes Haus. This wine is produced from grapes coming from the best vineyards of Vienna: Nussberg.

Since Wiener Gemischter Satz wines are by definition the wine's expression of terroir, I think it's necessary to write a few words about the area they come from. The soil in Nussberg vineyard is characterized by layers of flysch, over which came layers of clay and gravel, all with a high content of lime. In terms of climate, Nussberg enjoys a privileged position influenced by the Danube, the Vienna Woods and Pannonian climate. Danube and the Viennese woods maintain low temperature during the night and the Pannonian climate provides warmth and low humidity over the summer, and most importantly in autumn, before the harvesting.



Rotes Haus cellars are led by Hans Schmid, who is part of a new generation of wine producers in Vienna. The first Rotes Haus wine was bottled in 2003. From the very beginning Grüner Veltliner was promoted as well as the traditional Viennese style of wine making, where Wiener Gemischter Satz is the main example. Wines produced by Rotes Haus are only obtained from grapes picked from vines planted in Nussberg. Owner's desire being to concentrate and deliver as much of Nussberg's terroir as possible.

Wiener Gemischter Satz 2009 Classic is made from four white grapes: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Neuburger and Traminer. In the glass the wine is clear, has hay colour, with greenish reflections and a slight fizz. The nose is complex - flavours ranging from newly mown hay to fruit flavours: lemon, green apple and melon. I remembered for a few moments Cramposie Selectionata from Agricola Stirbey or Aligote from Gramma / Casa Olteanu. Once tasted, it reveals the true face of the terroir: minerality. This feature of Nussberg is doubled by a pleasant acidity, very well integrated, and a salty taste that reminds me of the sea breeze. The after taste is medium and that nice mineral taste persists in your mouth for a while. I didn't pair it with some kind of food, but if I did I would have chosen fish baked in salt.

For those who visit Vienna in the summer or autumn, when the hot wind that blows from the Pannonian plains creates that "Indian summer", Wiener Gemischter Satz Classic 2009 from Rotes Haus is a very good choice. The price is around 8-9 Euros.