marți, 24 august 2010

Graševina 2007, Iločki Podrumi

This Sunday's wine was given to me by a friend on his return from Croatia, where he spent his vacation. Not being a connoisseur of Croatian language, or Slavic languages for that matter, the only thing that I understood from the label is that the wine comes from a cellar called Iločki Podrumi. And that's only because in my grandparents' village, at the foot of Crodu Moma Mountains, cellars are called podrom.

Just a brief introduction. Cellar Iločki Podrumi, is located in Ilok, a town from Srijem wine region, located in Eastern Croatia near the Serbian border. Winemaking tradition in this region dates from the time of the Illyrians, but those who started to exploit the vineyards to its real potential were the Romans. Producers from Iločki Podrumi are very proud to be the followers of such an old tradition. Emperor Probus is also mentioned on the label of the wine bottle, as the first promoter of wine-making in this area. After the migrations and invasion of Ottoman Empire in the Middle Ages, Ilok ended up in the property of an Italian origin family, Odeschalchi. They continued the tradition of wine-making by planting foreign varieties of vines and starting to bottle the wine. In the late nineteenth century they made it to the British Royal Family’s table. Currently, the producing company, Iločki Podrumi, is one of the largest wine producers in Croatia, bottling annually over four million litters of wine. Their list includes mainly white wines: Traminer, Graševina, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Rhine Riesling.

Graševina is the Croatian name of the grapes also found in Romanian viticulture under the name of Italian Riesling. The Croatian name derives from "grasak" meaning "green peas", a reference to the grape berries in early stages of development.

The bottle of wine that I received as a present is a premium class wine produced by Iločki Podrumi, so I expected it to be a little more expressive then what I met in Graševina's Romanian brother, Italian Riesling. The colour is golden yellow with greenish hues and a very fine sparkling, sign that the wine has some acidity. The first nose reveals fresh, herbal aromas. The smell of the wine goes from lime tree blossoms to elder, but the glass also reveals green apples, lemons, pears, followed by melon and a very smooth woody flavour at the end. It’s lively, you can feel a bit of acidity and the aftertaste is slightly bitter.

Graševina 2007, Iločki Podrumi

This wine is not some kind of a revelation, but you cannot have very big expectations from an Italian Riesling. I recommend this wine more as companion for food, mainly because of the acidity. I paired it up with a portion of grilled chicken legs, potatoes baked in fire and covered with slices of Penteleu cheese.

8 comentarii:

  1. Exactly, one can not expect much from italian riesling. Younger crowd usually prefers chardonnay over grasevina. I am also guilty of that. However rieslings are making a big comeback in balkan region partly because of long tradition of making rieslings (while chardonnay is often deemed to be a "foreign variety").

    If you get another chance to choose some Croatian variety, I recommend Teran and Malvasia from Istria or Plavac from Peljesac. Cheers!

    http://www.mojevino.net

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  2. Thank you for your visit Marko. Unfortunately the croatian wine is not a common thing in the wine-shops or retail markets here in Romania, so the meeting with Plavac (I've read good things about this wine) will suffer some delay :) Have you tasted romanian wines ?

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  3. No, not yet, I hope to visit Timisoara region some day soon, I hear there's a good winery 30-40km to the west. I am from Belgrade, Serbia and I am sad to say that we don't have any romanian wines here. What do you think about romanian wines?

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  4. You can find good romanian wines at affordable prices. If you head to Timisoara, you must visit Enoteca de Savoya (www.enotecadesavoya.ro) and taste some of the romanian wines they serve there. Check out the Dealu Mare region, excellent for red wines, specially Feteasca Neagra (romanian grape variety).

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  5. If you have some time you should check Cramele Recas Cellars and Vineyard, close to Timisoara, 25 km to the east (www.recaswine.ro).

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  6. Oh sorry, you are right, I ment 30kms to the east and as i read "Recas" i remembered that that was the winery I wanted to see. Thanks!

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  7. thanx for the post. i guess graševina is a bit of an acquired taste - even though i am native to croatia, i considered it to be only a spritzer wine until couple of years ago. now it is among my top 5 (maybe even 3) white wine.

    ilok graševina is quite decent example. however, you go to ilok for traminer, really. if you get a chance - try krauthaker mitrovac graševina.

    in the meantime, i would welcome a recommendation for a good romanian chardonnay and where to get it in bucharest. i know la cetate - which is fine. personally, i prefer more full-bodied chardonnays. multumesc!

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  8. @perecash: thanks for the visit. Full-bodied Chardonnyas? Try Nachbil - Chardonnay 2009 (I don't know where you can find it in Bucharest) - but here is the producer's website: www.nachbil.ro . I also recommend Frunza Chardonnay from Cramele Recas (you can find it in Carrefour).

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